Q & A’s

Frequently asked questions and answers.

General Q & A’s

Are the products used dangerous to kids and pets?

Safety is our top priority. All of our service professionals have been trained on the proper application of materials to ensure a safe and healthy environment for your family and pets. All professional pest control products we use have been registered for use by the United States EPA.

What are five things I can do outside of my house to keep pests away?

1. Inspect and seal any cracks and holes outside your home. Make sure vents are screened and gaps around windows and doors are sealed.

2. Check around the perimeter of your home for leaky faucets and anything that allows moisture to pool around the base of your home.

3. Eliminate debris from gutters.

4. Trim tree branches and shrubbery around your home, especially if they are touching the building.

5. Store firewood and other wood at least 20 feet away from your home.

What are five things I can do inside my house to keep pests away?

1. Keep all kitchen areas clean (including floors) and free of useless clutter. Kitchen appliances should be kept free of spills and crumbs. Clean shelves regularly and store foods such as cereal, flour, and dog food in airtight containers.

2. Keep garbage areas clean. Garbage should be stored in sealed containers and disposed of regularly.

3. Check pipes and pipe areas around the house for leaks, cracks and gaps and seal and patch any problems if necessary.   Leaky faucets should also be fixed.

4. Keep basements, attics, and crawl spaces well ventilated and dry. If you have mold and mildew in your home or office crawlspace, it’s a symptom of an excess moisture problem.

5. Inspect boxes, grocery bags and other packaging you bring into your home thoroughly. Insects have also been known to come in on potted plants and in luggage.

Why should someone Hire Integrity Pest Elimination instead of attempting to control their pest problems by themselves?

Just as you wouldn’t prescribe medicine for yourself or drill your own cavities, you shouldn’t attempt to control Rodents or other pests on your own. The products, knowledge and the expertise offered by Integrity Pest Elimination far surpasses what a homeowner could do on their own. Leave it up to the pest professionals for peace of mind.

Post Treatment Q & A’s


How long does it take to solve a flea problem?

While adult fleas you see can be killed fairly quickly, newly developing fleas in the pet’s environment often delay complete control. If you already have an existing flea infestation both on your pet and in your home, it may take about 2 – 3 weeks after the initial Pest Control application before complete flea eradication is realized. A second treatment of your home in about 2 weeks may be needed to kill the new adult fleas as they emerge from their protective pupil cocoons.

Why do I sometimes continue to see fleas even after I’ve treated both my pet and my home?

Fleas developing inside protective pupal cocoons will usually survive the initial home treatment. These new adults emerge from their cocoons in search of a host, like your pet. These fleas will be killed, once they’ve been exposed to the active ingredients (IGR) in the products we have used in your home and on your pet. Re-treatment of your home within about 2 weeks should knock out the final generation of adult fleas that have matured and emerged from these pupae or cocoon

Why should I wait 2 weeks before re-treating my home if I’m seeing fleas now?

Even though it can be frustrating to see fleas, retreating your home immediately will not solve the problem faster. The best strategy is to wait a full 2 weeks before retreating. Complete control of fleas is often delayed because fleas in the cocoon or pupal stage are difficult to kill, due to their protective shell. It usually takes about 10 days to 2 weeks for pupal fleas to mature and emerge from the cocoon shell. When you retreat in 2 weeks’ time, you’ll be able to quickly kill the remaining population and bring your infestation under complete control.

How do I prevent fleas from infesting my home if my pet brings them in from outside?

It’s easy for pets to pick up an occasional flea during outings. The adult fleas can be killed with professional flea treatment with Insect growth regulator (IGR) insecticide product as needed, but on-going flea egg and flea larvae control can keep your home environment flea-free. That’s why we use an Insect Growth Regulator or (IGR) to prevent flea eggs from developing into adults. Fleas lay their eggs directly on the pet, so on-animal products that kill flea eggs can prevent infestation right at the source and continue to protect against new infestations for 7 months by killing any new flea eggs

Do I need to treat my whole house, even where my pet is not allowed?

It’s a good idea to treat all the carpeting and upholstery in your home, at least one time, as a precaution. Flea eggs, the size of sand grains, are very rarely seen but are easily spread by your pet. A female flea may lay as many as 40-50 eggs per day on your pet. Your pet can deposit a multitude of flea eggs in any area of your home just by being there for a brief moment. In addition, the larvae that hatch out can migrate for several feet into areas your pet may never have actually been.

Can I vacuum after I treat my home?

For best results, thorough vacuuming should be done right before any home treatment. The heat and vibration of a vacuum with a beater bar will stimulate fleas developing in cocoons to emerge onto the carpet surface so they can be quickly killed when you treat the carpeting. Vacuuming after treatment should not be a problem, as long as you allow the product to first dry completely. If you are still seeing fleas after home treatment, we recommend frequent vacuuming and a follow up service




How Long Should I Still See Ants After My Initial Pest Control Service?

Ants are the number one urban pest in the United States. Ants are very different than most of the other insects and rodents that our preventative maintenance service can usually easily manage. Ant colonies can number in the thousands to millions of individuals. A number of different colonies may be around a home or business at the same time.

Ants in your house can be coming from a colony nesting in a neighbor’s, exterior perimeter, landscape or any other common area. They are able to travel long distances from the colony to get food. Because only three to seven percent of the colony is usually out foraging at a given time, killing the ants seen in a home at a given time probably won’t solve the problem.

Using a non-repelling insecticide or baiting for ants is the ideal control method. Using over the counter pesticides contain pyritherins that can drive ants into your home or cause ant colonies to facture off into multiple colonies making your ant infestation much worse .Because they are a social insect. The foraging workers return with the bait or insecticide and feed the other colony members and Queen.

Unlike foraging workers, flying ants are reproductive and not interested in food. Unless the colony can be located and directly treated, which is usually not possible, they will continue to emerge until they have all left the colony for their nuptial flight. Due to the temporary nature of this problem, periodic vacuuming of the flying ants is advised.

Regardless of the best skills, methods and materials utilized, ant management can take from several days to several weeks. Cleaning up ant attracting foods like sugary spills and pet food will eliminate competing food sources that can also delay getting results.

  • Ant numbers are a significant factor
  • Bait acceptance is a process that takes time
  • Help eliminate conditions that can attract ants


Why do I still see spiders and spider webs after my pest control treatment?

Spiders aren’t insects they are Araneae air-breathing arthropods that have eight legs and chelicerae with fangs that inject venom. .Spiders are difficult to control with just a pesticide application alone. A pesticide application affects spiders in two ways .First if a spider comes in direct contact with the pesticide it will die. An additional benefit from a pest control service is that it also eliminates insects spiders eat. In this case it is very common to see spider-webs. Due to the diminished insect population Residual spiders will web in open areas. This may last a few weeks after your pest control service.eventally the spiders will be eliminated from starvation or from pesticide elimination. Here are some tips for control for the home or business owner.

Habitat Control: Landscaping for spider control

There are many ways to make your property less hospitable to spiders and the insects they are after. Making these changes will decrease the amount of spiders in your yard, as well as reduce the likelihood that they’ll migrate indoors.

Get rid of rock and wood piles. Decorative rock piles and wood piles are a favorite dwelling place for ground spiders. Get them away from the house. If possible, keep wood piles off the ground and only bring into your home as much as you immediately need. Similarly, it is best to just get rid of other spider shelters adjacent to the home – bricks, building materials, compost piles, debris, trash, etc.

Remove excess vegetation for spider control. Let the sun in, keep the spiders out. Thick vegetation makes for great spider habitat. Keep vegetation around your home trim and away from the house. Clear away ivy, bushes, shrubs, and grasses – anything that fosters large spider populations near your home. Promptly clean up leaf litter and debris. Mow your lawn regularly, and trim tree branches that are too near or overhang your home. Plant trees and shrubs away from structures to allow for light.

Physical Controls: Keeping the spiders out

Get rid of spider entry points. Exclusion – also known as pest-proofing – is an essential part of spider control and indeed all pest control. Here are some things you can do to keep spiders out of your home.

  • Apply weather stripping to all doors and windows. Also, it is a good idea to install door sweeps. You need a tight seal to keep spiders out.
  • Repair all windows and door screens using silicone caulk or screen patches. Windows are a common spider entry point, so be sure that each layer, from screen to glass to trim, is sealed completely.
  • Buy some outdoor sealant and a caulking gun. Walk around your home looking for cracks and crevices around your foundation and fill them in. Next look at your siding. You may need a specialized sealant depending on your siding material and color. Be sure to check the lowest edge of your siding for cracks and holes. Lastly, fill in all holes created by utilities: cables, wires, pipes, faucets, outlets, plumbing…etc. Concrete, mortar, or expandable foams are also options for filling in holes.
  • Screen all vents leading into the home.

Get rid of spider harborages (hideouts). Once you’ve worked to spider-proof outside, head indoors and start again. First stop is the basement, crawl space, or lowest level. Fill in any cracks or crevices in the foundation and around windows. Find the same utilities you sealed around outside (pipes, plumbing, wires, etc.) and seal them inside. Work your way up from the basement. Spiders hide in cracks in trim, flooring, behind outlets, countertops – any dark secluded space.


Can You Really Get Rid Of Roaches For Good?

Cockroaches, also known as waterbugs and palmettobugs, are among the most difficult household pests to control. Except for periods of warm weather when they may migrate from house to house. Usually they are found in bathrooms and kitchens where they feed upon a wide variety of foods, including cereals, sugar-containing foods, meats, cheese, beer and soda pop, as well as leather, bookbinding, and wallpaper paste. They can be carried into homes in cardboard cartons, sacks, beverage containers, furniture and pet foods.

Cockroach elimination is not an overnight process .It takes time, commitment and a service professional that has the knowledge to address your roach issue. Its takes an average of 6 to 12 weeks to eliminate roaches .This depending on the size of the infestation and sanitary conditions. In other words don’t panic if you see roaches after your home or business has been treated.Patience,follow-up service and cleanliness are the keys to regain control .Here are some additional  info and tips for roach elimination .

Cockroaches are one of the most disagreeable insects that may invade homes. While it is not true that an unkempt home will cause a roach infestation, there is indeed a strong correlation between sanitation and cockroach populations once an infestation gets started. The presence of roaches often causes serious mental anguish for some homeowners. Roaches often associate themselves with filth and are known to be involved in the spread of bacterial organisms which cause gastroenteritis and other intestinal infections. Some people are allergic to cockroach secretions and circular proteins. Cockroach body fluids contain an allergen which causes an allergic reaction when there is contact with live roaches, roach “byproducts” (fecal material and body parts) or contaminated food and utensils. There is also a foul smelling, oily liquid that is produced by most roach species; this oily liquid is known to stain fabrics, woodwork and other surfaces.

The exact origin of our domestic species is disputed, but many are tropical forms and now are widely distributed throughout the world by commerce. In our area, we are commonly bothered by five different species of cockroaches. Four of these are domestic roaches, while the fifth is more at home outdoors but also gets into the house.

The American cockroach, our largest, may grow to 1 1/2 inches (35 mm). It is reddish-brown or mahogany with light markings on top of the thorax (the body division that bears the winds and legs) and matures in about seven months. The adults may live for up to 18 months. The nymph is grayish-brown, becoming reddish-brown as they mature, and wingless. It prefers damp areas such as basements, and may be found around pipes, sewage systems, and drainage systems in homes, commercial buildings and greenhouses.

The Oriental cockroach is Black; 1 1/4 inches (30 mm) long when full-grown and has short wings, the wings of the female being only rudimentary. It may take as long as 22 months to mature, and is a relatively sluggish insect. Living on filth, it travels along sewage systems into homes. This species will migrate outside from building to building and enter buildings through ventilators, broken foundations, and under poorly fitted doors. It prefers damp, cool areas, especially basements and crawl spaces and near drains and leaky water pipes. They can be found under sinks, refrigerators and washing machines if those areas are damp. Outdoors they can be found beneath decaying leaves and stones, and in mulch, garbage piles and water-meter vaults.

The German cockroach is smaller, slightly over 1/2 inch (12-15 mm) long, brownish-tan with two black parallel lines just behind the head. The nymphs are darker, wingless, and also have two lengthwise stripes behind the head. This species prefers high relative humidity and warmth and is a significant pest problem in homes, restaurants, hotels, food plants, warehouses, dumps, office buildings, hospitals, and ship and retail stores. It is quite active and can easily migrate throughout buildings thus becoming a major pest in apartment buildings. This roach prefers a kitchen or bathroom where there are plenty of food, moisture and hiding places, but they can often be found in other parts of the house as well. This species produces more eggs and has more generations per year (3 or 4) than other cockroaches; thus, a troublesome infestation can develop rapidly after the chance introduction of just a few individuals.

The Brown-Banded cockroach is a fairly recent introduction first found in Florida in 1903. It has since spread through the South and into some areas of the northern U.S. While it normally congregates, individuals can wander throughout the house, hiding in furniture, bookcases, television sets, radios, computers, light switches, behind pictures hung on the wall, and closets or other secluded locations, especially those high off the floor. It is slightly under 1/2 inch (10-12 mm) when mature, and is colored a straw brown. Two brownish bands are located on the wings of the adult, one where the wings join the body, and one a little further back toward the wing tips. The term “brown-banded”, however, describes the immature form more accurately than the adult, since the bands are conspicuous on the abdomens of the nymphs. The species prefers temperatures over 80 degrees F, and takes up to 150 days to mature at this temperature.

Long and are colored a drab brown. They require one year to mature.

Other roach species, such as the Australian roach, Smokey-brown roach, Brown roach and Asian roach, may also be found in Michigan from time to time.

Roaches lay their eggs in large numbers within a single capsule (ootheca) which contains from 12 to 32 eggs, depending on the species. The egg compartments within the capsule are indicated by grooves on the outside. The egg capsules range in color from dark brown to tannish brown and are somewhat bean-shaped they are usually deposited in out-of-the-way places such as on the underside of shelves, inside cupboard corners, bottoms of drawers, and similar hard-to-see areas. Egg capsules from which the eggs have hatched will float, while those that have unhatched eggs will usually sink in water. The nymphs grow slowly, requiring 2 to 18 months to complete their development.

Integrated Cockroach Management 

It is easier (and less costly) to prevent cockroaches from entering a structure than it is to get rid of them. They can be discouraged from invading buildings by sealing cracks and crevices in foundations and outside walls. Check the seal around vents, air conditioners, windows, doors, utility entrances, and other openings into the home.

Carefully inspect all incoming beverage cartons, groceries, cardboard boxes, laundry, luggage, used/rented furniture and appliances and firewood for the presence of roaches or their egg cases.

Indoors, all potential hiding and breeding areas should be eliminated. Cracks, crevices and holes in floors, walls and ceilings should be repaired and openings around plumbing fixtures, furnace flues, electrical outlets, heating ducts, between window sills and walls, and along baseboards and ceiling moldings should be sealed.

Cleanliness in the home greatly lessens the possibility of cockroach infestation. Unwashed dishes and kitchen utensils and exposed food should not be left out overnight. All spilled liquids should be cleaned up. Cupboards, pantry shelves, storage bins, appliance motor housings and floors where food particles accumulate should be cleaned often, first by vacuuming and then with soapy water. Kitchen wastes and dry pet food should be kept in containers with tightly fitting lids. All leaky pipes, backed up drains, condensation problems and other sources of moisture must be repaired or eliminated.

Roaches caught in spider webs. Enter dark rooms with a flashlight to locate infested areas. Because various combinations of cockroaches can occur in the same building, it is essential to accurately identify the species present. This will permit the use of control measures that take advantage of behavioral patterns and life requirements of each particular species.

Professional Control 

If a severe, widespread or persistent cockroach infestation occurs, or if you are in doubt as to proper control measures, employ a reputable pest control company like Integrity Pest Elimination. These professionals have the knowledge, training and equipment to do a thorough job.





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